Till a few years ago, most of the traditional skin care procedures used to be performed in a dermatologist’s clinic. However, thanks to the ever-increasing influence of social media vloggers and their skincare tutorials, more and more of these procedures are now being done at home. Derma rolling - the DIY version of micro-needling - is one such facial skin care technique that has gained massive popularity in recent years. 

According to dermatologists, derma rolling is an effective way of achieving glowing and smooth facial skin. The skin treatment involves the use of a derma roller, a handheld rolling device featuring multiple rows of tiny, sharp needles. The article explores the uses, effectiveness, and side effects of the derma roller in detail below. 

How Does A Derma Roller Work?

When a derma roller is rolled over the skin, the short needles on the roller puncture the skin and create tiny pathways. These minute pathways are similar to a controlled skin injury. While the injury doesn’t cause actual damage to the skin, it does lead to superficial bleeding that stimulates the wound healing process of the body. 

Wound healing facilitates the formation of new blood vessels on the skin. It also promotes the production of more collagen which is deposited in the treated skin. All of this helps the skin become more firm and significantly lessens the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. 

Where is Derma Roller used? 

Derma rollers were originally used by skin care specialists to enhance collagen production. Collagen is a protein that helps make the skin firm.  The device is primarily used to

• treat facial scars
• diminish fine lines and wrinkles
• reduce hyperpigmentation
• reduce the appearance of stretch marks
• rejuvenate skin

Derma rollers are also used to help better and deeper penetration of skin care products, thereby increasing their effectiveness. These days, they are also being used to administer therapeutic drugs and vaccines via skin.  

How To Use It?

Derma rollers with different blade sizes are available for different skin issues. For instance, longer blades are used to reduce scarring while smaller blades are used for skin rejuvenation. You can easily use a derma roller at home by picking the one that suits your needs. Just follow the steps mentioned below: 

• Take out the derma roller from the container.
• Clean the device by spraying an alcohol-based solution.
• Wash the roller with warm water. Dry it and place it on a clean paper towel. 
• Properly cleanse and dry your face to prepare it for treatment.
• Roll the device up and down the forehead, cheeks, and chin without applying too much pressure.
• Switch to horizontal movements followed by diagonal ones.
• Once the rolling is complete, apply a hydrating serum. Avoid serums that contain potentially irritating retinol and vitamin C.
• Disinfect derma roller with alcohol spray.
• Once dry, put the device back in the storage container.

While using a derma roller, stay clear of the eye area. Ensure you exercise caution when using the device on sensitive areas such as the nose and upper lip.

Is It Really Effective?

While derma rollers are effective, they won’t produce the kind of results that you would likely get from a micro-needling session at a dermatologist’s clinic. Nevertheless, using a derma roller a few times a week will help in better penetration of skin care products that you apply afterwards. Since skin care takes time to produce visible differences, you will need to limit your expectations of quick results. 

Derma rolling is similar to micro-needling performed by dermatologists. However, unlike its clinical counterpart, derma rolling uses a handheld device with significantly smaller needles. Consequently, the results are not as evident as those from micro-needling. Nevertheless, it is still believed to be an effective DIY skin care technique that can help reduce acne scars, remove fine lines and wrinkles, and make skin firmer. It is advised to consult your dermatologist before using and buying a derma roller to reap the most benefits. Those with pre-existing medical or dermatological conditions like eczema or cystic acne must consult their doctors before using any appliance on their skin.

For more information,

Consult an Apollo Dermatologist Now

Medically reviewed by Dr Sonia Bhatt.